Coming Soon

Wicked Racin’s new Bash Guard
The new Wicked Bash guard is made of clear Polycarbonate and is designed to accept 32 - 36 front chain rings. Precision CNC machined to complement the Wicked Racin Dualrailleur Guide System, but will work with any dual chain ring system. With the Wicked Bash you can run the most popular front sprockets combos without have to change bash guards.

How to adjusting the rear derailleur

Under Construction
This blog entry will discus how to adjust the rear derailleur. No amount of adjustment will compensate for damaged equipment, be it a bent derailleur, derailleur hanger, bent or worn-out cog, chain etc. So I assume all is in good shape.

If you’re installing the derailleur for the first time there are some basic steps.
Once you have installed the derailleur on the bike, without the cable installed vertically align the top wheel of the derailleur with your smallest rear cog gear. You do this by adjusting the travel limiting screw on your derailleur labeled with a (H). Adjust the screw as needed to align the gear and derailleur.

Make sure your shifting pod is in the correct position for the high gear and you have adjusted the cable adjustment screw in all the way. Install your cable on the derailleur as normal making sure to pull the cable tight before tightening down the cable.
Check to make sure there is no slack in the cable. If there is, retighten the cable.

Once you have all the play removed form your cable, using the shifter pod select the lowest gear or where the derailleur is in the position to align with the largest gear on the cog. Make sure the top derailleur wheel is vertically aligned with the large gear. Now test to insure the derailleur doesn’t go past the largest gear and will not come in contact with the spokes. You can do this by pushing on the shifter or tying to push the derailleur closer to the wheel using you hand. If the derailleur goes too far or will not reach the sprocket adjust screw labeled (L) as needed. It is very important that the derailleur does not come in contact with the wheel in any way.

Now shift back to the highest gear (small cog) and install the chain. It is much easier to install the chain when it is in the highest gear. Also make sure to thread the chain correctly through the derailleur cage. Once the chain is installed make sure it peddles smooth and the chain doesn’t try to jump.

Now shift the derailleur into the lowest gear (largest cog) again. Check to ensure the top derailleur wheel is vertically lined up with the largest gear and if all looks good make sure the chain it runs smooth on the large sprocket. Once you have accomplished that, try shifting to second gear, making sure the chain drops as expected. If all looks good cycle through the gears as normal making sure the bike goes through all the gears as expected.

Now you can fine tune the derailleur; shift the drivetrain to the lowest gear (large cog) again and carefully shift it to the fourth or fifth gear. Now check to make sure the top derailleur wheel is vertically lined up with the selected gear. Adjust your derailleur by adjusting the tension on the cable. The chain should run about 1mm - 1.5 mm away from the next larger gear.

After you have taken the time to adjust the derailleur properly, and if the bike doesn’t shift correctly you most likely have other drivetrain issue and need to have it looked at by a professional mechanic.

For the artical with picture go to ...

http://www.wickedracin.com/wickedracin/htmlPages/Tech/AdjustRear.htm

What makes the Dualrailleur Guide a better dual ring chain guide?

The surface area of the Dualrailleur Guide is approximately 2.5 times greater on the inner plate, 3 times on the outer plate, and has 4 times more surface area on the bridge than a standard derailleur. Made from Polycarbonate the the same material used in Bullet Proof Glass.

The design of the extra surface area calms all the chain whip generated by extremely rough conditions prior to entering the front sprocket. This enables the chain to flow to the selected sprocket with out jumping or jamming. We have designed the guide to work in concert with the patented ramping system of the Shimano derailleur.

In the middle ring configuration the inner plate of the Dualrailleur hangs well below the chain line preventing the chain from dropping to the granny gear the same way a single ring downhill chain guide works. The chain is actually trapped between the bash guard, top and side of the Dualrailleur Guide, on the sprocket.

When shifting to the granny gear, the Dualrailleur moves as part of the front derailleur, so the whole guide shifts to align the small ring chain line. The inside of the guide is perfecly matched to the Roller Inner Plate. Once again trapping the chain between the middle ring and the inner roller plate.

The unique shape of bottom of the Dualrailleur Guide inner plate mates with our Roller Inner Plate with only a gap of 5 to 10mm, there is no way a chain can derail and drop to the frame. this is not something any other company can equal. Yes we give you the roller tensioner as others, but much more. We feel the true control for the chain is accomplished on the top where the chain is going to come in contact with the sprockets, that is why single ring chain guide are used not just derailleur.

The relationship between the Bash ring, the Dualrailleur and our inner backing plate traps the chain so there is no possible way for the chain completely derail.

The Dualrailleur Guide was designed to integrate with the Shimano FD-770 top swing, FD-770 E-Type and the FD-771 bottoms swing derailleur. The Shimano derailleur in include with the Guide. Patent Pending

Other true guides limit your use to one sprocket, and the current dual ring systems only tension the chain allowing the chain to jump between front sprockets and even derail. The Dualrailleur Guide has incorporated the best of both worlds allows you to take full advantage of a dual ring chain configuration resulting in more ability to maneuver steep terrain and promote safety.

Shift to the only true dual ring chain guide

Chain Guide, dual ring chain guide, e.thirteen, mrp,

What is a Dualrailleur Chain Line?

With the bash guard removed and through a progression of overlay pictures, you notice how the chain line is very high in the Dualrailleur Guide. This prevents the chain from dropping on to the granny much like a single ring chain guide. We have designed the Dualrailleur to utilize the proven derailleur cage ramping system to maximize shifting efficiency, and then extended the entering and exiting area to calm the chain as it travels through the guide. The Dualrailleur has 4 to 6 times the surface area when compared to just a standard derailleur, so the chain is actually trapped on the sprockets. Plus you can adjust how close you run the guide next to your chain. The bottom of the guide hangs below the chain line to prevent the chain from jumping to the granny in even the roughest conditions. In my opinion if the derailleur did such a good job by its self, then there would be no need for single ring guide. Everyone would just use a derailleur, they are a lot cheaper. Made of Polycarbonate (the same material used for bullet proof glass) the chain glides effortlessly through the guide. Polycarbonate is much more expensive, but is a harder and slicker surface then the plastic other companies have chosen to use. We could have made a cheaper guide but we demand the best performance and didn’t want to be just another dual ring system. Dual Ring Chain Guide

Wicked Racin’s Dualrailleur Guide
Saturday October 6th, 2007 at 11:59 PM
Posted by: Francois


The friendly folks of Wicked Racin showed up in a well-done booth to display their Dualrailleur chain guide. This product is a full fledged chain guide with a trick up its sleeve… it can shift to the granny ring. Remarkably, Mark from Wicked Racin was able to figure out how to make a chain guide that shifts between two front chainrings. This is very timely as downhillers now want lighter bikes, bikes with extended seatposts, and perhaps even a granny ring. When the shuttle is not available, it would be nice to be able to pedal to the top of the mountain.
Does it work? Luckily, we’ve had an opportunity to use the Dualrailleur guide for the last three months. It works like a champ! We haven’t dropped a chain yet and it’s pretty darn quite on those rocky downhills. On the Santa Cruz Nomad, it shifts between the middle ring and the granny with no fuss.
Originally, I didn’t want a granny on my 33 lb Nomad. I can turn those cranks, I thought. But now that I have it, I’m using the granny ring almost daily! I’ll take on any hillclimb or wall without hesitation and I rarely need to walk my big bike these days. It really makes the bike a lot more versatile. Also, I’ve been able to put a bigger ring in the front since I know I have the 22-tooth granny close by.
So it’s a great product that I thought I didn’t need. And it looks cool.

36 tooth Sprocket combinations

36 tooth Sprocket combinations
I get this question a lot: Q. I am running a dual ring system and was thinking of going to a 36 or 38 tooth middle ring and was wondering if I need to get a larger granny gear to go with it. A. In my experience when you change to a 36 or 38 middle ring you should go to at least a 24 tooth granny gear. I you are going to stay with a 34 then you can keep the 22 granny with no impact on shifting. We have tested many different sprocket combinations and when you try to run a 36 with a 22 granny it will work, but shifting under any load will be impacted greatly. So for smooth shifting I would suggest: 32-34 tooth paired with a 22 or 24 tooth and for 36-38 tooth paired with a 24 or 26 tooth

What is a Dualrailleur Guide

The Dualrailleur is the first and only guide on the market to provide
the precision of a single ring guide while allowing the rider to shift
between two front chain rings. The Dualrailleur gives you the benefit of a downhill guide AND the ability to shift to the small ring for easier climbing. The guide has been developed for and includes a Shimano XT FD-M770 & 771 Front Derailleur.

The Dualrailleur enhances the combined performance of the derailleur, chain, sprockets/gears, and the outside bash guard. As the chain travels into and through the guard it’s funneled effortlessly to the selected sprocket. The surface area of the Dualrailleur is approximately 2.5 times greater on the inner plate, 3 times on the outer plate, and has 4 times more surface area on the bridge than a standard derailleur. This greatly enhances the ability to control the chain and minimize chain whip prior to entering the front sprocket. The guide is made of Polycarbonate with an inner plate of 6061 aluminum for strength allowing the chain to glide through the guide.
When in the middle ring the inner plate of the Dualrailleur hangs below the chain preventing the chain from dropping to the granny gear but when shifted to the lower ring the Dualrailleur moves as part of the front derailleur, so the whole guide shifts to align the small ring chain line. The relationship between the Bash ring, the Dualrailleur and our inner backing plate traps the chain so there is not possible way for the chain completely derail. Other guides limit your use to one sprocket, and the current dual ring systems only tension the chain allowing the chain to jump between front sprockets and even derail. The Dualrailleur Guide allows you to take full advantage of a dual ring chain configuration resulting in more ability to maneuver steep terrain and promote safety.

Proper chain length

I have come across a lot of discussions about chain length and I have seen some very complicated calculations on how to get the proper length. There are a few things to consider as in; chain growth due to suspension type, the length of your chain stay, what size sprockets and cluster you are running, and if you are running the standard three ring, dual ring or single ring front setup. There is no way to just say, the chain should be this long, you have to install it on the bike and follow a few basic steps. For us this basic set up seems to work every time. Install the chain on your largest front sprocket and on the largest rear sprocket. In this case it is a dual ring set up. (1) With the rear derailleur in the lowest gear or climbing gear position, and the front derailleur set for the big ring (in this case the 34 tooth middle ring) thread the chain over the front sprocket, rear cluster and through the rear derailleur as normal, also if you have a roller system, make sure to run the chain over the roller. Bring the two ends of the chain together and connect them with a master link (We are using the SRAM Power link) or just hold the chain in the appropriate place. Now look at your rear derailleur cage. (2) (3) The derailleur cage should be between lets say the 5 o’clock to 6 o’clock position. Our preference is 5 o’clock, in the 6 o’clock position or vertical, the chain will have too much slack when in the small to small gear configuration. This set up should give you plenty of slack to compensate for chain growth as the bike goes through its travel. For a more advance set up look at last picture. (4) In this picture you can see that the derailleur cage is in the 4 o’clock position, this is very tight, but we tested to insure the chain will not bind. The way we tested it was to remove the shock and put the chain stay/swing arm through its full travel making sure the chain never overly stress the derailleur. Sense this frame has very little chain growth we are able to get away with such a tight chain. This is not recommended unless you are very familiar with setting up bikes, and sure that the chain will not bind, plus it does add a little more stress to the drive train. With that said, it is great for controlling the chain. I hope this helps.
Hope this helps

Mark
www.wickedracin.com

wickedracin

Wicked Racin

The Wicked Racin blog is devoted to inform riders on everything from the Dualrailleur Guide System to general bike issues. Running a business that sell products to the public, we get a lot of questions on different issues. Plus all the testing done in the name of research and development of different products, has given us solutions to many of the common problems facing the average ride. We hope people will be able to use this information posted to make their mountain bike experience a little less confusing, and be a little more informed. We invite your comments and questions and will try to keep it up to date. Information in this blog is definitely slanted to the aggressive all mountain, freeride and downhill side of the sport. I’m not claiming to be the supreme expert on all fascist of mountain bike and definitely not a writer. I just having a lot of first hand experience in certain subjects.
Thanks
Mark
www.wickedracin.com